IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE

The day after we came back from our tramp we did sea kayaking, which was a lot of fun! But before that I was given a highly professional outfit. I loved it! A kind of diving suit! That is something I always wanted to put on sometime. (ist das richtig? …was ich schon immer einmal anziehen wollte….soll es heißen!) Just the very feeling! Cool!

It was very difficult to put it on…but it was even more difficult to take it off again.

But actually, my cap was the greatest hit! It let me look at least ten years younger. Even if I had been miles away, you could have recognized me. I looked extremely striking! A tip: whenever you feel terribly old, just put this cap on… and you will feel immediately younger!

picture taken by Susanne

picture taken by Gregor

I shared a kayak together with Susanne. Never underestimate the surprising strength of women… we were not too bad, no, on the contrary, we were quite good and very fast! Susanne, we made a rEAl drEAm tEAm!

The view we had from the kayaks was quite different from the one we had during our tramp. The water was sparkling, the sun was shining, and the birds were flying over our heads. We could not see the tramp. The bush was so thick… we could only guess where it was… but sometimes we spotted a few bays we had walked on…that was nice.

picture taken by Gregor

After two hours kayaking we stopped at a beach where an aqua taxi picked us up and brought us back to Marahau again. It was the same taxi driver who gave us a lift to Tortaranui three days ago… so we spent a happy hour chatting with him und he gave us hot tips were to go the next day.

Before we left Marahau we stopped at a little museum… there was an exhibition outside – sculptures made out of wood and stone…yes there was heaps of wood… Susanne, Gregor and I ran about and got lost in this little yard…all of us took lots of pictures. It is astonishing how different they are… we love the little details. Thanks Susanne for inspiration!!

After one hour we headed towards Takaka, where we settled down at Annie’s Nirvana Lodge – a very nice place with a lovely backyard. Actually Takaka consists only of two roads, three at the most. It is nothing really special, except of a few tiny shops. I fell in love with these little creatures. They are lovely!

In the evening we went to the supermarket to buy a few snacks for the next day. When we were standing in the queue somebody tapped on my shoulder. And guess who it was!!! Sammy, a girl who had worked together with me for the RA Company before…I really like her… Actually she is from Liverpool and usually lives in Dublin. Now she and her boyfriend are travelling through New Zealand. And this evening they stayed in the same backpackers as we did. What a coincidence! We exchanged addresses at once! I hope to see her again…I had so much fun with her!

Last Sunday I met Gregor again (See In the meantime…) and Susanne, who is German too and in New Zealand for one year. We decided to walk the Abel Tasman Coast track.

Straight away the backpacks were packed. I put very little in it - only the most necessary things, like my toothbrush and a sleeping bag. On the next day we got up early, slipped on our hiking shoes (or trainers in my case), shouldered our rucksacks and caught the 8 o’clock ferry to Picton, South Island. It took us 3 hours to get there. While crossing the strait we could see hundreds of dolphins swimming beneath the ferry and the idyllic fjord landscape of the top of the South Island.

After we arrived in Picton we had Fish and Chips for lunch, what else? Then we headed by car towards Nelson, where we discussed and finally booked our three-day walk. The Abel Tasman Coast Track to be precise. This track is 51 km long and alleged to be one of the most beautiful in the country.

Around 6 o’clock in the evening we reached Marahau and settled the backpackers “The Barn”. A very cosy place! While we were having an excellent dinner together with a Japanese couple, Susanne was joking all the time. She is marvellous at telling jokes. I really had problems to swallow the noodles. I laughed so hard I almost pulled a muscle. The Japanese girl also complained about muscle pain in her cheeks which grew redder and redder.

After a very comfortable night (temporarily our last night sleeping in a bed) we got up early to take the aquataxi to Tortaranui. On the way, seals, comarans (no idea how it has to be spelled) and interesting Rock formations were shown to us, for example “the split apple” or the “kiwi rock”.

"The Split Apple"

If you have a little bit of fantasy you will see the rocks as a Kiwi bird.

After we had been dropped off in Tortaranui, we met Neil, a passionate 70 year old rambler.

Due to the fact that he wanted to tramp the same route as we did, he joined us for the following three days.

Day one: Tortaranui – Separation Point – Awaroa Hut

To get to our first aim, the Separation Point, we had to pass through native bush. Here and there we could take brief glances at the beaches of golden sand lapped by gleaming blue green water. It immediately remembered us of the Barcadi advertisement where you can see beautiful sandy, Caribbean beaches.

I really tried to soak up the intense colours of the pristine seas and gorgeous inlets.

The bush looked exactly the way I have always imaged the jungle to be like.

Not far away from the separation point we had lunch. It was certainly one of the most beautiful places where I had ever had lunch. Unfortunately, we were attacked by sandflies as soon we had unpacked our food. Next time I will definitely bring generous amounts of sandfly repellent. Because now, a few days after the walk, the sandfly bites (maybe around 20) start to itch. Neil gave us a special recipe how to mix an effective insect repellent: 2/3 of baby oil and 1/3 of dettol. Next time I will use this miracle stuff!
While we were enjoying our meal we saw a few tourists approaching us. So we finished our lunch quickly, turned and fled. We did not want to meet other people. We just wanted to enjoy the nature. Winter is such a good time; the national parks are not too crowded.

Due to the fact that the Able Tasman area has huge tides (up to 6m difference between low and high tide) which have an impact on our walking, we had to hurry up. There was one section of our first day track, the Awaroa Estuary, which was tidal and with no high tide track around it.

Since I had only my trainers with me instead of hiking shoes and the high tide started to come in again, I had to take off my shoes and walk the last kilometre barefooted. Normally walking on the sandy beach seems to be very pleasant. But this was not pleasant at all. The bottom was entirely covered by millions of shells. After a while it felt like walking on razor blades. Additionally, at some places we had to walk through freezing cold water. Unbearably painful! But hey, I made it!

Afterwards we were rewarded by a hot cup of tea under a breath taking canopy of stars and the moon eclipse which was the highlight of the day!

Here you can see the Southern Cross with the Milky Way. Admittedly, I did not take this picture on my own. I got it from the internet. It is just too difficult to take a picture of the stars with a normal digital camera. However, in real life it looks better!

Day two: Awaroa Hut – Anchorage Hut

After a wonderful night in a sleeping bag and a quick wash we were back on our way. On this day we even had to take off our trousers to get through an estuary. Absolutely refreshing! Furthermore, we had to cross a 47m long suspension bridge and dangerous tracks (see photo).

In one of my posts I have already mentioned that possums are not very popular in New Zealand. They were rather considered to be a plague. On this three-day hike I obtained evidence for that claim. After each 20 metres we came across a possum trap.

Day three: Anchorage Hut - Marahau

On our last day Neil was very funny. With his very fashionable hat on, he started to crawl on the bottom and behaving like superman. It’s unbelievable that such an old man can still walk like a 20 year old lad.

When we reached our destination (Marahau) we were welcomed friendly by his wife Edith.

After a hot shower we met the couple again for dinner and exchanged addresses…

After this trip I became aware of the things I really like and need. Life would only be half so nice without them: Chocolate, cheese, meat and rouge! Yes, ROUGE!!! The red powder you put on your cheeks to look healthier!

Come on guys; tell me your most essential things of life!

Additional Information or questions:

- When Kiwis are talking about tramping they normally mean bushwalking, hiking or trekking. ATTENTION! Don’t exchange it with the German expression ‘Trampen’ – travelling by getting lifts from passing vehicles without paying. Therefore we use the English verb ‘to hitch-hike’.

- The national symbol of New Zealand is the silver fan. It is called silver fan because the leaves are on one side covered with white powder – appearing silver. Does anyone know what it is for?